From France it was a quick jaunt across the border and through Monaco (on big highways!) back to the Ligurian Coast of Italy. A few km inland is the beautiful ancient town of Dolceacqua were we met Dan and Carlynne and their kids.
So amazing to have cousins around. Also adult company was very needed. We don’t get to see Dan and Carlynne enough.
Dolceacqua used to be a fortified city state that gained its wealth by controlling the inland trade routes. There were countless deals and marriages with the counts/royalty of Genova and Monaco. Plus pirate raids and waves of invasion.
Through it all the old town has stood strong, with its ancient Roman bridge and hilltop castle.
The Ks had a place down the hill from us. Narrow streets and no cars made for easy kid roaming. Plus the cousins came with walkie talkies for communication and hide and seek.
View from our lovely deck. Our house was three stories. Three rooms all stacked on top of each other.
Exploring the streets.
Looking through the castle and absorbing serious history.
The castle also had a display about Monet, who spent months at a time here and painted some of his most famous works inspired by the scenery.
There were numerous excerpts of letters from Monet to his wife explaining why he had to stay longer in this beautiful place while his wife looked after the 6 kids in France. Sacrifices for art.
Drinks while the kids played in the local (and ancient) storm sewers.
Not sure why the Chinese presence on this particular street. Didn’t see any Chinese people. Maybe there was a tie in to the local Visionarium theatre.
We spent a day in the hilltop fortress town of Apricole. Dan found a hiking route that was over 50% through crazy old streets along a high ridge before opening up into the mountains. Local church above and below, mid way through our hike.
Out onto the ridge above town looking back at it. Lunch break. Fresh local produce and baking every day.
Italy loves little libraries! Different vibe than the Canadian ones.
Back into town on the downhill portion of our semi urban hike that still had significant elevation gain.
A church across from the church.
Back to the bridge! Very photogenic.
We made the wonderful discovery that the kids actually behaved better when we let them have their own table and we sat far far away.
On one of the hottest days we ventured out to a higher valley to find another swimming hole.
It was spectacular and once again provided excellent opportunities for cliff jumping.
It was busy when we arrived but the crowds cleared out over the afternoon and we ended up there by ourselves.
At the end of our time we realized that a local had rehabilitated an old farm property and opened a back country bar just above the swimming spot. He backpacks all the supplies in. We were there on opening day.
Spaghetti on the deck.
Cousin gang at the castle.
After dinner on our last night before an alpine adventure!
The next morning we packed up for hiking and left our excess gear at Dan and Carlynne’s.
After a 4 hour drive we arrived at the top of an incredible valley, planning to hike about 700m elevation gain to an alpine hut. Unfortunately our intel was faulty. Though indeed there was a little over 700m between our start and end point, the route we had to take went over a 2800m pass and then 400m descent to the hut.
This was not in the cards for our family so we made the split decision to bail to another destination after a short hike to appreciate all the waterfalls and granite cliffs.
Thankfully we found a comfortable Bed and breakfast in a little village just down the valley called Roaschia. Thank goodness for smart phones and internet access!
Our kind host phoned ahead and made reservations at a local restaurant (the only restaurant). Famous for its pizza if you can believe it… didn’t take any pictures but it was indeed delicious and reasonably priced and friendly and there was a very nice border collie that the kids loved.
Our host also recommended much more attainable Refugio up Val Valasco. We’ll jump into that one next.
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